‘THE PIONEER in 5’ with Safia Minney, Founder, Fashion Declares
Safia Minney, is the Founder of ‘Fashion Declares’ — the fashion industry grassroots campaign that launched this week to accelerate change in the fashion industry on the climate, ecological and social crises. In this week’s ‘Pioneer in 5’ interview she shines a light on what Fashion Declares is seeking to achieve, why it is so needed now, and the opportunity for the industry to radically shift its current operating model and ways of working, to better serve people and planet.
1. ‘Fashion Declares’ launched this week. What is it, and who is involved?
‘Fashion Declares a climate, ecological and social emergency’ is a grassroots movement to accelerate change in the fashion industry as one of the most polluting and unjust sectors in the world. We have come together as a group of fashion industry leaders spearheaded by myself, alongside Tom Berry, global director of sustainable business at FARFETCH; Mike Barry, former director of sustainable business at Marks and Spencer; Debbie Luffman, product director at Finisterre/ThinkCircular and Hubbub, Mariusz Stochaj, head of product and sustainability at Continental Clothing, and Ben Tolhurst, Director of Business Declares.
The timing of the launch comes as 2022 sees intense focus on the fashion industry. In the UK, the Competition and Markets Authority is targeting fashion with a greenwashing probe, while the Environmental Audit Committee is expected to deliver its follow-up report on ‘Fixing Fashion’.
2. What are you hoping to achieve through Fashion Declares?
The goal over the next three years is to get 50,000 individuals to become ‘members’ of Fashion Declares by signing the Open Letter here and so pledging their support for five radical commitments that could rapidly transform fashion. These are:
1. Speaking out for urgent action to tackle the climate, ecological and social crisis
2. Delivering decarbonisation, restoration of ecosystems and biodiversity
3. Working for social justice and a just transition
4. Ensuring radical transparency and corporate governance
5. Adopting a regenerative fashion model
These bold commitments reflect the need for rapid and fundamental changes in fashion. We have a handful of years to avoid the catastrophic impacts of global warming and we need wide-ranging and urgent action across the sector. This needs to include individuals working at every level in fashion, from designers to finance people, and from retailers to influencers. While this industry is a huge contributor to the climate and ecological crisis, we also believe it is a creative and innovative sector with drive and passion. We can do more than just negate our impact – fashion can take a leading role in tackling the crisis and become a significant force to transform mindsets and lifestyles.
3. Decarbonisation and the restoration of ecosystems and biodiversity is one of your 5 key commitments. How do you think the fashion industry is best positioned to contribute to this?
The first thing we need to do is switch to low impact fibers and fabrics and move away from fossil fuel fabrics which represent 2/3rd’s of the industry today. The shift to regenerative agriculture at scale is a critical part of this, which includes working with and supporting small scale farmers. Shifting to regenerative agricultural practices leads to healthier soils and ecosystems, and promotes biodiversity. Fashion companies need to partner closely with the farmers and suppliers in their supply chains so they can transition away from synthetically produced fibers and instead promote practices that result in carbon drawdown and promote water security, and support local livelihoods and communities and long term climate resilience.
4. What will be needed to genuinely see a move at scale towards a regenerative fashion model?
We need to decarbonise supply chains, which is where almost 90% of the fashion industry’s total global GHG emissions are today, and switch from fossil fuels to renewable energy. We need to talk and practice de-growth. Fashion production needs to reduce by a staggering 75% or more globally, in order to operate within planetary boundaries – AND we need to share the benefit of the industry fairly. To make both of these happen, legislation and binding agreements are key. Enforced transparency reporting and the proper taxing of carbon are really important to help price out highly exploitative fast fashion, and create a more even playing field across the industry. The regulation is not yet there, which is why coming together as an industry now to lead the way and establish and create new norms and practices is so important. Human Rights due diligence needs to be law to protect people’s rights – modern slavery is rife in the fashion industry. Fashion Declares calls for a just transition.
5. How are you personally inspired by nature?
If we cut out unsustainable fashion, fossil fuel propped up fashion, we are left with natural and biodegradable materials. I am very inspired by how deeply fashion and soil are connected, and to the farmers that steward our land – and hold the key to preventing the breakdown of food systems. When I first set foot on organic cotton fields in India 27 years ago, I immediately noticed how springy and rich the soil was and how profoundly different a healthy ecosystem is. I really love soil and plants and have been intrigued to learn and understand more about how they can also drawdown carbon. Craft and handmade is also a big part of finding new climate and people friendly pathways to regenerative fashion systems.
For more on Safia Minney and Fashion Declares.
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